The latest articles on DEV Community by rearmirror (@rearmirror). https://dev.to/rearmirror https://media2.dev.to/dynamic/image/width=90,height=90,fit=cover,gravity=auto,format=auto/https:%2F%2Fdev-to-uploads.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com%2Fuploads%2Fuser%2Fprofile_image%2F4184012%2F7b690767-d924-4fdb-a3b9-df56f0d38dbd.jpg https://dev.to/rearmirror en rearmirror Wed, 14 Oct 2026 07:39:07 +0000 https://dev.to/rearmirror/what-i-check-when-the-reversing-camera-picture-isnt-right-h61 https://dev.to/rearmirror/what-i-check-when-the-reversing-camera-picture-isnt-right-h61 <p>I chose a wired reversing camera so I wasn't relying on a wireless link, but cables and connectors still need attention. When the picture on my mirror monitor misbehaves, I work through the physical connections before suspecting the camera or the screen. Below is that checklist, the limits I hold to, and how I keep the kit in decent shape.</p> <h2> My fault-finding checklist </h2> <ul> <li>Are both threaded 4-pin connectors screwed fully home, at the monitor end and the camera end?</li> <li>Has the cable been pinched or chafed anywhere along its route through the lining or chassis?</li> <li>Is the black wire still firmly earthed to the body frame?</li> <li>Is the red wire on the circuit I meant? Ignition-switched gives a constant picture; the reversing light positive gives a picture only in reverse.</li> <li>Is the supply within the stated 12V to 24V?</li> <li>Has the camera bracket moved, so it's pointing at the bumper or the sky?</li> </ul> <p>I check the fourth question early. A camera that only works in reverse isn't faulty if it was wired to the reversing light.</p> <h2> Limits I keep to </h2> <p>I don't force the monitor's spring-loaded clips onto a mirror they clearly don't suit. The design is meant to clamp over an existing mirror without drilling or permanent changes, and I'd rather keep it that way than modify anything.</p> <p>I also stay within the listed voltage range and don't feed it from anything outside 12V to 24V.</p> <h2> If the cable won't reach </h2> <p>On cable length, the kit comes with 15 metres. If a longer run were ever needed, I'd use a proper 4-pin extension cable plugged into the system rather than splicing wires. Any extra length gets routed with the same care as the original run.</p> <h2> Care through the year </h2> <p>The camera is rated IP68 and has a metal alloy body, so rain and road spray are what it's built for. I still look after it:</p> <ol> <li>Wipe the lens and the 18 infrared LEDs whenever I clean the back of the vehicle.</li> <li>Check the stainless steel screws on the bracket now and then.</li> <li>Look over the cable entry points for chafing, especially where it passes through metal.</li> <li>Give each screw connector a quick turn by hand to make sure it hasn't loosened.</li> </ol> <p>I do these checks as part of ordinary cleaning rather than as a separate job. If one of them turns something up, I fix that before relying on the camera again.</p> <p>The cable and connector details are listed on <a href="https://rearmirror.co.uk/" rel="noopener noreferrer">rearmirror.co.uk</a> for anyone comparing setups.</p> debugging diy hardware