Calibrating a printer in the wrong order wastes filament. Each test depends on the one before it. This is the order that works for me on an Ender-3 class machine running Klipper, and it applies to Marlin too.
1. Level and tram the bed
Everything else depends on a flat, even first layer. Heat the bed first, then tram.
2. First layer
Print a single-layer square. Lines should touch with no gaps and no ridges. Adjust Z offset in 0.02 mm steps.
3. E-steps (rotation distance)
Mark 120 mm of filament above the extruder. Command 100 mm. Measure what remains. New value = old value x 100 / actual extruded.
4. Temperature tower
Print a tower for each new filament. Pick the temperature with the best layer bond and least stringing.
5. Flow rate
Print a single-wall cube and measure the wall with calipers. Adjust flow until the wall matches your nozzle width.
6. Retraction
Print a stringing test. Change distance first, then speed. Change one value at a time.
7. Pressure advance
Print the corner test. Pick the value where corners are sharp without gaps.
8. Write it down
This is the step people skip. Keep one row per filament: temperature, flow, retraction, pressure advance. When you reload a spool you start from known good numbers.
I made a printable workbook with record sheets for all of these: 3D Printer Calibration & Tuning Workbook. 8 pages, $6.
I also post small printable designs on Cults3D, and there is a Patreon if you want to support more of this.
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