One of the most common mistakes new horse owners make is over-blanketing. Horses are remarkably well-adapted to cold — but there are absolutely times when a blanket helps. Here's how to think about it.
The horse's natural thermoregulation
Horses have several built-in mechanisms to stay warm:
- Winter coat: Horses grow a thick undercoat that traps air for insulation
- Piloerection: They raise individual hairs to increase insulation (like goosebumps)
- Shivering: Generates heat when needed
- Movement and foraging: Natural behaviour generates body heat
A horse with a full winter coat and access to shelter handles temperatures down to -10°C comfortably.
When you DO need a blanket
Clipped horses: If you've clipped for work (removing the winter coat), the horse cannot thermoregulate properly. A blanket is not optional — it's essential.
Rain + wind combination: Wet and windy weather penetrates the coat and removes its insulating air layer. A waterproof turnout rug helps here.
Old or underweight horses: Senior horses and those in poor condition have less fat reserves and may struggle to maintain warmth.
Recovering horses: Illness often reduces the ability to generate heat normally.
Stabled horses in very cold climates: If stable temps drop below freezing consistently, a stable rug adds comfort.
Types of horse blankets
| Type | Use | Fill weight |
|---|---|---|
| Stable rug | Indoor use only, not waterproof | 0-400g |
| Turnout rug | Outdoor, waterproof | 0-400g |
| Cooler/fleece | After exercise, absorbs sweat | None |
| Summer sheet | Fly protection, light dust cover | None |
The temperature guide (unclipped horses)
- Above 10°C: Usually no blanket needed
- 5-10°C: Light rug if wet/windy
- 0-5°C: Medium rug or nothing if sheltered
- Below 0°C: Consider medium-heavy rug, check condition
Full blanket selection guide: rincondv.com/blogs/news/manta-cuadra-vs-exterior
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