If you game on a modern console and you like your motion buttery and your inputs snappy, HDMI 2.1 can be a real upgrade. If you mostly stream shows and dabble in a few 60-fps titles, you might not need it at all. Here’s the no-nonsense version so you can decide without falling down a spec rabbit hole.
TL;DR
Care about 120 fps and smooth motion with tear-free gameplay? HDMI 2.1 matters.
Happy at 60 fps and mostly watching movies? You can live without it.
The best wiring depends on how many 2.1 ports your TV has and whether your AVR is truly 2.1 on multiple inputs. Run everything through a modern AVR like the Onkyo TX-RZ50 for HDMI 2.1 gaming.
What HDMI 2.1 actually changes
Three letters make the biggest difference:
4K/120: doubles the frame rate ceiling at 4K, so fast games feel fluid.
VRR (Variable Refresh Rate): the display matches the console’s frame output to reduce tearing and stutter.
ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode): your TV drops into its low-lag Game mode automatically.
There’s more under the hood—higher bandwidth, QFT/QMS on some gear—but those three are what you’ll notice day to day.
Console reality check
PS5 and Xbox Series X|S support 4K/120 and VRR on many titles, but not every game.
Some TVs only have one or two HDMI 2.1 ports. If your sound system and console both need 2.1, plan your wiring.
Early “HDMI 2.1” AVRs had limited 2.1 ports or chipset quirks. Newer models are much better, but always check how many full-bandwidth inputs you get.
Do you personally need it?
You probably want HDMI 2.1 if:
You play shooters, racers, or competitive titles where 120 fps helps you track targets or shave lap times.
You notice screen tearing and it bugs you. VRR fixes a lot of that.
You hate menu diving. ALLM putting the TV in Game mode for you is underrated.
You can skip 2.1 (for now) if:
You’re mostly watching movies and TV at 24/60 fps.
Your favorite games are capped at 60 fps and you’re happy with stable performance over raw speed.
Your display doesn’t support 2.1 anyway, and you’re not upgrading soon.
How to wire it without headaches
Option A: Console → TV (HDMI 2.1 port) → eARC → AVR
Use the TV’s best 2.1 port for the console, then send audio back over eARC. This is the cleanest path when your TV has strong 2.1 support but your AVR is older or has fewer 2.1 inputs.Option B: Console → AVR (2.1 input) → TV (2.1 input)
Run everything through the AVR if it has multiple 2.1 inputs and a 2.1 output. This keeps device switching simple and preserves gaming features end-to-end.
Tip: If something looks “off,” check three things first—console video settings, TV Game mode, and cable certification (look for “Ultra High Speed HDMI”).
If you don’t have HDMI 2.1 yet
- Try 1080p/120 or 1440p/120 if your TV supports it; many games look and feel great at those settings.
- Make sure VRR is on if your TV and console offer it over HDMI 2.0 (some combos do).
- Keep your AVR and TV firmware updated; manufacturers quietly fix a lot via updates.
When an AVR upgrade makes sense
You have multiple 2.1 sources (PS5, Xbox, maybe a gaming PC) and your TV only has one 2.1 port.
You want one remote path and less “input gymnastics.”
You’re planning Atmos/DTS:X anyway, so consolidating video and audio through a modern AVR keeps life simple.
Bottom line
HDMI 2.1 isn’t a moral imperative; it’s a quality-of-life upgrade. If you chase high frame rates and smooth motion, go for it. If you’re more about story games and movie night, your current setup may already be “good enough.” Prioritize how you actually play, then wire the fewest boxes in the simplest way that preserves the features you care about.
Top comments (0)