Usually yes, but not for the reason most people buy them.
Remote on/off is a party trick. You will use it twice and then forget it exists. The three things a smart plug actually does well are different:
It gives a schedule to an appliance that never had one. A space heater, a coffee machine, a fish tank light, Christmas lights. None of those are "smart", and none of them need to be. The plug carries the intelligence and the dumb appliance just obeys.
It measures. A plug with energy monitoring will tell you which device is quietly costing you money. I have seen people discover an old beverage fridge in the garage eating more than their lighting.
It turns a switch nobody walks to into something you can control. The plug behind the sofa, the one under the desk, the one in the holiday flat you visit twice a year.
Two things to check before you buy, because this is where cheap plugs quietly fail:
Rated current. Most plugs are 10 A or 16 A. A 10 A plug on a 2000 W heater is running at the edge continuously, and that is how you get a warm plug and eventually a welded relay. Resistive loads like heaters, kettles, irons and ovens deserve a 16 A part and a brand that publishes the rating. This is not the place to save three dollars.
Power-on state after a power cut. This is the single most underrated spec. When mains power returns, does the plug come back ON, or does it stay OFF until the app tells it otherwise? If you are using it for a heater or a pump, you need to decide which behaviour you want, and you need the plug to let you choose. Cheap units hard-code one behaviour and do not tell you which.
Where they are genuinely a bad idea:
Anything that must never lose power. A freezer, an aquarium pump, a sump pump, a CPAP machine. You are putting a relay and a Wi-Fi chip between the mains and something that fails badly when interrupted.
Anything that needs a clean shutdown. Hard-cutting power to a desktop PC or a NAS every night is a slow way to corrupt a filesystem. A TV is fine; a computer is not.
Anything already smart. If the device has its own app and its own scheduling, the plug adds a second point of failure for no benefit.
One honest trade-off worth knowing. A Wi-Fi plug talks to a cloud server. When that server has a bad day, your schedule stops. A ZigBee plug runs locally through a hub, so it keeps working when the internet is out, but it needs that hub. If you only have two plugs, Wi-Fi is fine. If you are building toward twenty devices, the hub starts paying for itself.
I work on the manufacturing side of this, so I carry a bias: I think the useful part of smart home is scheduling and measurement, not voice control. But that is also why I would tell you to skip the plug for the freezer and spend the money on a properly rated one for the heater.
If you are sourcing these rather than buying two for your own flat, the spec sheet that matters is relay rating, power-on behaviour, and which app ecosystem the module is certified for. We build Tuya-compatible plugs and wall sockets, and the catalogue is here if it helps: https://xingliaoshop.com/product-category/smart-socket/
Xingliao Smart Home builds smart switches, video doorbells and security cameras on Tuya WiFi and Tuya ZigBee, and runs OEM/ODM programmes from Shenzhen. Factory and ODM capability.
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