How to choose size, weight, finish and artwork for metal coins and tokens, and how to plan sampling before your campaign goes live.
By the WangFuk team
Few upgrades get backers talking like a handful of heavy metal coins. Swap cardboard chits for metal and your game's economy suddenly feels real, with a satisfying clink on every trade. It's no surprise metal coins have become a go-to deluxe add-on for crowdfunded games.
They're also easy to get wrong. A coin that's too thin feels cheap, a coin that's too big won't fit the insert, and artwork that looks great on screen can blur once it's struck in metal. Here are the decisions indie designers usually face, in the order you should make them.
1. Start with gameplay, not looks
Before you sketch a single dragon, answer three questions:
- How many denominations must players tell apart at a glance? Two or three values are easy. Five or more need help from size, color, or both.
- How many coins sit on the table at once? Hoarding games need smaller, stackable pieces. Six victory tokens can afford to be big and showy.
- Where do the coins live in the box? Measure your insert now and let that space set the diameter and thickness.
2. Size, thickness and weight ranges
Most board game coins fall within a fairly narrow band:
- Low-value / high-count coins: 20–25 mm diameter, 2–2.5 mm thick
- Mid-value coins: 25–30 mm diameter, 2.5–3 mm thick
- Showpiece tokens: 32–40 mm diameter, 3–4 mm thick
Weight comes from volume times material density, minus whatever the relief removes. As a rough guide for zinc alloy, a 25 × 2.5 mm coin lands around 8 g, a 30 × 3 mm coin around 13–14 g, and a 38 × 3.5 mm token in the mid-20s. Brass is roughly a quarter heavier at the same size. These are ballpark physics figures, so weigh real samples before you commit.
Keep size steps between denominations at 3–4 mm or more. Smaller differences are hard to read across a table.
Not sure which metal to pick? This comparison of zinc alloy, brass and iron for board game coins covers the trade-offs in weight, detail and finish.
3. Choosing plating and finish
Finish gives your coins their personality, and it's also your best tool for telling denominations apart.
- Antique bronze or copper fits fantasy, historical and steampunk themes. The darkened recesses make relief detail stand out.
- Antique silver has a "found treasure" look and sits well beside bronze in the same set.
- Gold (shiny or antiqued) is the natural top-value finish. Use it sparingly so it still feels special.
- Two-tone plating, such as a gold center with a silver ring, adds a premium touch and helps players separate values without relying on size.
- Color fill in the recesses can support colorblind-friendly designs when it's paired with distinct symbols.
A classic three-tier set uses one front design in antique bronze, silver and gold, with a different numeral on each. It's simple, readable and true to the theme.
4. Artwork tips that survive the mold
Coins are a relief medium, so you're designing in height as well as line.
- Supply vector files (AI, EPS, PDF or SVG) and note which areas are raised and which are recessed.
- Keep lines and gaps around 0.3 mm or wider. Hairlines tend to fill in during plating.
- Go big and bold on text. Small serif lettering blurs, while bold sans-serif stays crisp.
- Add a raised rim to protect the face from wear and give the coin a clean edge.
- Design both sides, and ask about plain, reeded or patterned edges.
The factory should send back a 2D technical proof showing dimensions, relief levels and plating callouts. Check it closely, because problems are easiest to fix at this stage.
5. Sampling: plan for it before launch
The most common mistake is promising delivery dates from a render before a physical sample exists. A sensible sequence looks like this:
- Send a brief with sizes, quantities per denomination, finishes and artwork.
- Approve the 2D proof. Expect one or two rounds of revisions.
- Receive pre-production samples in every finish you plan to offer.
- Weigh them, stack them, fit them in your insert and play a full game.
- Photograph the real samples for your campaign page.
If your game targets families, ask your supplier for material test reports against standards such as EN71-3 or ASTM F963, and build that time into your plan.
6. MOQ thinking for small runs
Molds are a one-time investment per design. Sharing one front design across several denominations and changing only the numeral or finish keeps the number of molds down. Many factories now accept small first orders, sometimes 50–100 pieces per design. That works well for prototypes, reviewer copies or a modest deluxe tier, and the same molds can be reused when your backer count grows.
For more on quantities and how campaign schedules line up with production, see this guide to MOQ and timeline planning for Kickstarter metal game coins.
Final checklist
- Coin sizes set from real insert measurements
- Clear size or finish steps between denominations
- Vector artwork with readable lines and text
- A physical sample in hand before the campaign page is final
- Test reports requested if younger players are in your audience
Get these right and your coins will be the component backers keep picking up. For inspiration on shapes and finishes, browse these examples of custom metal game tokens.
About the author: The WangFuk team runs an OEM/ODM factory in Dongguan, China, making custom metal coins, dice, miniatures and other board game components alongside metal gifts and accessories. Learn more at wangfuk.com.
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