The Complete History of Pepsi Bezel Watches: From Rolex to Seiko and Beyond
In the world of horology, certain designs transcend function to become icons of culture. The red-and-blue bezel—popularly known as the “Pepsi Bezel”—is one of those enduring legends. Born in the 1950s for pilots, this bold color scheme has since crossed into mainstream fashion, becoming a collectible symbol worn by explorers, celebrities, and everyday enthusiasts alike.
This comprehensive guide explores the history, models, and cultural impact of Pepsi Bezel watches—from the pioneering Rolex GMT-Master to affordable Seiko divers, from vintage Tissot and Heuer GMTs to modern interpretations by Timex, Ball, Steinhart, and San Martin. As How the Rolex GMT-Master Became One of the Coolest Watches of All Time notes, the GMT-Master and its Pepsi bezel are considered some of the most influential watches ever made.
I. Origins of the Pepsi Bezel
The story of the Pepsi Bezel begins in 1954, when Rolex collaborated with Pan American Airways during the golden age of jet travel. Pan Am needed a watch that could display two time zones for its pilots. Rolex answered with the GMT-Master Ref. 6542, featuring a split red (day) and blue (night) bezel insert.
The vibrant contrast not only improved legibility but also created an instantly recognizable design. Because the colors mirrored the Pepsi logo, collectors soon nicknamed it the “Pepsi Bezel.” What started as a tool for aviators soon became a style statement and cultural emblem.
II. Rolex: The Original Pepsi Bezel Master
Historical Background: Why Rolex Created the Pepsi Bezel
In the early 1950s, international air travel was booming. Pan American Airways (Pan Am), one of the world’s leading airlines, approached Rolex with a request: they needed a watch capable of tracking two time zones simultaneously for their pilots and crew. At the time, commercial jet travel was new, and flight crews were frequently crossing multiple time zones.
Rolex responded in 1954 by creating the GMT-Master Ref. 6542. The watch introduced a unique bezel design: red for daylight hours, blue for nighttime hours. This simple but functional color code helped pilots instantly differentiate between day and night across different time zones. The design resembled the Pepsi logo so closely that collectors nicknamed it the “Pepsi Bezel.”
Over the decades, Rolex refined the GMT-Master series, keeping the Pepsi bezel as its most iconic variation. What started as a professional tool soon became a status symbol and collector’s dream.
- Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 6542 (1954–1959) Significance: First GMT watch, designed for Pan Am pilots. Design: Bakelite bezel with radium lume markers—visually striking but fragile. Movement: Caliber 1036 with GMT hand. Legacy: The watch that started it all, cementing the Pepsi bezel as a horological icon. Market value: Extremely rare; mint examples exceed $200,000 at auction.
- Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675 (1959–1980) Design upgrade: Replaced fragile Bakelite with a durable aluminum bezel insert. Movement: Cal. 1565/1575, known for robustness. Cultural presence: Famously worn by celebrities; rumored James Bond screen appearances. Collectibility: One of the most beloved vintage GMTs, valued between $15,000–$40,000 depending on condition.
- Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710 (1989–2007) Innovation: Independent hour-hand adjustment, enabling true dual time. Variations: Pepsi (red/blue), Coke (red/black), and all-black inserts. Movement: Cal. 3185/3186. Value: Considered the most accessible Rolex Pepsi model; prices have risen steadily, now ranging $10,000–$15,000+.
- Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 116719BLRO (2014–2018) Milestone: First ceramic Pepsi bezel, but launched exclusively in 18k white gold. Movement: Cal. 3186. Market positioning: A luxury status piece, retailing around $40,000, with secondary prices even higher.
- Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLRO (2018–Present)
Game changer: Stainless steel version of the ceramic Pepsi, fitted with a Jubilee bracelet.
Movement: Cal. 3285, with a 70-hour power reserve and Chronergy escapement.
Market heat: Nearly impossible to find at retail; trades on the secondary market at a 50%+ premium, often above $18,000.
Significance: The modern face of the Pepsi Bezel, merging tool-watch history with mainstream desirability.
Market Performance & Investment Value
The Rolex Pepsi bezel line is one of the strongest performers in the watch investment world:
Vintage models (6542, 1675): Extremely scarce, highly collectible, appreciating consistently due to historical importance.
Transitional pieces (16710): Considered the “entry ticket” to Rolex Pepsi ownership, values climbing steadily in the past decade.
Modern gold (116719BLRO): Exclusive and rare, appeals to high-end collectors; secondary prices often above retail.
Current steel (126710BLRO): The most in-demand Pepsi of all time, with waiting lists stretching years and resale premiums exceeding 50%.
In short, Rolex Pepsi bezel watches are not only horological icons but also one of the most reliable long-term investments in the luxury watch market. For collectors who wish to explore more affordable options in this aesthetic, koniguhren.de offers Pepsi-style models that capture the same spirit of travel and adventure.
III. Seiko: Democratizing the Pepsi Bezel
Historical Background: Why Seiko Adopted the Pepsi Bezel
While Rolex invented the Pepsi bezel in the 1950s for airline pilots, Seiko brought the design to the everyday watch enthusiast. Starting in the late 1960s and 1970s, Seiko was rapidly expanding its global presence, offering affordable automatic watches with robust tool-watch design.
In this context, Seiko adopted the red-and-blue bezel for its dive watches and sports models. Unlike Rolex, which positioned the Pepsi bezel as a luxury travel companion, Seiko used the same iconic color scheme to emphasize functionality, affordability, and accessibility.
By the 1990s, the Seiko SKX009 had become one of the most popular Pepsi watches ever produced—not because it was luxurious, but because it was reliable, ISO-certified for diving, and affordable enough for beginners. This combination gave the Pepsi bezel a dual identity: Rolex represented prestige and exclusivity, while Seiko represented inclusivity and practicality. As 5 Best Seiko Pepsi Watches to Add to Your Collection highlights, Seiko’s Pepsi divers remain favorites among value-minded enthusiasts.
Key Seiko Pepsi Models
- Seiko SKX009 (1990s–2019)
Design: 42mm case, 200m ISO dive certification, red-and-blue aluminum bezel insert.
Movement: Seiko 7S26 automatic—non-hacking, non-hand-winding, but famously reliable.
Reputation: Called “the best first mechanical watch” by countless collectors.
Market status: Discontinued in 2019; prices surged on the secondary market to $300–$500.
Cultural role: Cemented Seiko’s Pepsi as the everyman’s dive watch.
- Seiko 5 Sports SRPD53K1 (2019–Present) Positioning: Successor to the SKX line, more casual than a professional diver. Specs: 100m water resistance, same Pepsi bezel, youthful design. Movement: 4R36 automatic, with hacking and hand-winding. Market: Affordable entry-level, approximately $300 new.
- Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi SRPL99 (2025) Collaboration: The first official partnership between Seiko and PepsiCo. Design: Vintage-inspired diver with a silver dial, Pepsi bezel, and Pepsi logo packaging. Limited edition: 7,000 pieces worldwide. Price: Around $400; expected to appreciate as a collectible.
- Seiko 5 Sports x Pepsi SSK047 (2025) Design: GMT model with a black PVD case and Pepsi branding. Movement: Seiko 4R34 GMT caliber, offering a local-jump hour hand. Market: Affordable GMT at approximately $450, marketed as a “budget alternative” to the Rolex GMT. Market Performance & Collectibility
Seiko Pepsi watches enjoy strong popularity among casual collectors and young enthusiasts:
SKX009: Discontinuation boosted demand; values continue to rise.
SRPD53K1: Affordable and widely available, a strong gateway for first-time buyers.
SRPL99 & SSK047: Limited editions tied to PepsiCo give these models extra cultural and collectible value.
Unlike Rolex Pepsi models, which can trade at five to ten times retail on the secondary market, Seiko Pepsi watches generally remain under $500, making them accessible to a much wider audience.
Advantages of Seiko Pepsi Over Rolex Pepsi
Affordability: Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi can cost $15,000–$40,000+, while Seiko Pepsi models range from $300–$500. This makes Seiko accessible to beginners and collectors who want the Pepsi look without the financial burden.
Tool-watch functionality: The Seiko SKX009 is ISO-certified for diving (200m), something the Rolex GMT-Master is not designed for. Seiko Pepsi models are true working tool watches, often more rugged for sports and water activities.
Cultural inclusivity: Rolex Pepsi is aspirational and exclusive, while Seiko Pepsi democratizes the Pepsi bezel—allowing more enthusiasts worldwide to enjoy the design.
Variety: Seiko offers Pepsi bezels across divers, sports watches, and GMTs, while Rolex limits the Pepsi strictly to GMT models.
Collectibility at entry level: Discontinued Seiko Pepsi watches (like the SKX009) have shown strong resale growth—offering investment potential at a much lower entry point.
IV. Tissot: The Vintage Pepsi GMT
During the 1970s, the jet-age boom influenced many Swiss brands to experiment with dual-time and world-time watches. Tissot, known for producing high-quality but affordable Swiss watches, introduced the Navigator GMT line. To enhance legibility and align with the aviation-inspired design, some Navigator models adopted the red-and-blue Pepsi bezel, echoing the cultural success of Rolex’s GMT-Master.
Key Model: Tissot Navigator Automatic (1970s)
Design: Cushion-shaped case, 40mm diameter, Pepsi bezel with an inner 24-hour ring.
Movement: Caliber 2481 automatic with GMT functionality.
Market value: Relatively scarce on the vintage market, typically $1,500–$3,000.
Appeal: Offers a true 1970s aviation feel at a fraction of Rolex’s vintage Pepsi price.
V. Heuer: Autavia GMT and the Racing Connection
In the 1960s and 70s, Heuer (before becoming TAG Heuer) was a brand deeply tied to motorsport timing. To expand into aviation and travel, Heuer released the Autavia GMT Chronograph, which combined a Pepsi bezel with racing-inspired chronograph functionality—bridging two adventurous worlds.
Key Model: Heuer Autavia GMT (1960s–1970s)
Design: Bold Pepsi bezel, black or silver dial with subdials, oversized hands for readability.
Movement: Valjoux 724 manual-wind chronograph with GMT.
Market value: Very limited production; collectors pay $10,000–$20,000 for well-preserved pieces.
Appeal: Rare crossover of motorsport and aviation heritage in a single Pepsi watch.
VI. Timex: The Pop-Culture Pepsi
In 1979, Timex sought to capitalize on the quartz revolution by releasing affordable sports watches with global appeal. Among them, the Q Timex became iconic, with its Pepsi bezel standing out as a bold fashion statement. Unlike Rolex or Seiko, Timex Pepsi watches were never positioned as tool watches—they were style-driven, affordable, and trendy.
Key Model: Timex Q 1979 & 2019 Reissue
Design: 38mm case, Pepsi bezel, woven stainless steel bracelet, day-date complication.
Movement: Quartz (battery-powered).
Market value: The 2019 reissue retailed at $179 but sold out instantly, reselling for $300–$400.
Appeal: A true “fashion Pepsi,” bringing vintage flair to modern streetwear and lifestyle scenes.
VII. Ball: Professional-Grade Pepsi GMT
Ball Watch Company, with roots in railroad timing, built its modern reputation on rugged tool watches designed for extreme environments. When Ball introduced its Roadmaster Marine GMT, the choice of a Pepsi bezel was natural—linking the brand’s practicality to the iconic day/night bezel aesthetic.
Key Model: Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT
Design: Ceramic Pepsi bezel, 40mm stainless steel case, 200m water resistance.
Movement: Swiss automatic GMT movement (COSC-certified).
Special feature: Micro gas tube lume for unparalleled night visibility.
Market value: Approximately $2,500 new; seen as a serious alternative to luxury GMTs.
Appeal: Offers functionality and toughness beyond what many luxury Pepsi watches provide.
VIII. Steinhart & San Martin: The Microbrand Pepsi Options
With the rise of independent and microbrands in the 21st century, enthusiasts sought Pepsi-style bezels at affordable prices. Steinhart (Germany) and San Martin (China) stepped in, producing Pepsi GMT watches that echoed Rolex aesthetics while remaining budget-friendly.
Key Models
Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT Pepsi
Design: 39mm case, Pepsi bezel, clean dial strongly inspired by Rolex.
Movement: ETA 2893-2 or Sellita SW330-1 Swiss automatic GMT.
Market value: €500–€600 new.
Appeal: Well-built homage, offering Swiss quality at a fraction of Rolex cost.
San Martin Pepsi GMT
Design: 40mm case, Pepsi ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal.
Movement: Seiko NH34 GMT automatic.
Market value: $200–$300.
Appeal: A true “starter Pepsi GMT,” perfect for budget-conscious buyers wanting the look and functionality.
X. FAQ: Pepsi Bezel Watches
Q1: Why are they called “Pepsi” watches?
Because the red-and-blue bezel colors resemble the Pepsi logo.
Q2: Are Pepsi bezel watches always expensive?
No. Rolex models are pricey, but Seiko and Timex offer affordable options under $500.
Q3: What’s the difference between Pepsi and Coke bezels?
Pepsi = red/blue; Coke = red/black.
Q4: Which Pepsi watch is best for beginners?
Seiko SKX009 or Timex Q for budget buyers; Rolex GMT-Master II for serious collectors.
Conclusion
From the skies of the 1950s to the wrists of modern collectors, the Pepsi Bezel watch has become more than just a functional tool—it’s a cultural icon. Rolex defined it, Seiko popularized it, Timex revived it, and microbrands democratized it. Today, whether you’re spending $300 or $30,000, there’s a Pepsi Bezel waiting to join your collection.
The red-and-blue bezel isn’t just about telling time—it’s about telling a story of exploration, heritage, and timeless style.
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