Ride the wave. Missed the wave. This is the next wave. 🔁
It sucks to be stuck inside the break. The waves are too fast, too powerful. You try to paddle out past the break, but each crashing wave knocks you back farther than you paddled.
A surfer that looks way better than you goes shredding past your head. "Lucky them", you think as you dodge their fins and the whitewater folds you into another spin cycle.
You finally make it out to the break. You see a wave forming, spin around, and paddle your little heart out. You misjudged. That wave wasn't ready to break yet, and now you're back on the inside. You spin your board back around and there it is. Your perfect wave. It's too far out. You're Not Gonna Make It.
Surfing requires a specific pattern of behavior:
- Positioning & patience, then
- Explosive action, then
- Balance & execution.
Skip the waves that are already breaking. If somebody is standing on the wave, you already missed it. If the commentators are talking about the wave, you already missed it. Put your head down and get just past the surf line, and no farther.
The world is watching the people riding their waves. The world was watching someone else while they paddled out. Everyone wants to ride the wave, nobody wants to paddle out.
This is the biggest set (of waves) humanity has ever seen. What a blessing it is to be in the water right now.
Paddle out.
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