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Dibyaprakash Pradhan
Dibyaprakash Pradhan

Posted on Originally published at pcbeditor.com AI-assisted

PCB Builder: Three Ways to Start a Circuit Board in the Browser, and What It Won't Do for You

"PCB builder" is what most people type before they know the word EDA: they want to build a circuit board in the browser and export files a manufacturer will accept. I work on PCBEditor, one of the tools that does this, so the examples are real boards from it, mistakes included.

Short answer: an online PCB builder takes you from an idea to manufacturing files with nothing to install. You describe the board or draw the circuit; it places the parts, routes the copper and checks the design rules; you export Gerber, drill, pick-and-place and BOM files and upload them to a fab. You don't need to know PCB design to use one; you do need to know what your circuit should do.

Three ways to start

Describe what the board should do. Write the requirement in plain language, a sensor node, a motor driver, a power supply, and get a schematic, a placed board and routed copper to review and change. Fastest if you know the function but not the parts. Put the numbers in. The board in this post started as:

I2C OLED display board: a 0.96 inch 128x64 SSD1306 OLED module on a 4-pin header (GND, VCC, SCL, SDA), driven by an ATtiny85 over I2C with 4.7k pull-ups, a 6-pin ISP programming header, one push button, powered from 5 V USB micro-B. 2-layer board.

Draw the circuit yourself. Place components and wire them up directly. Everything you draw feeds the same board generation, so a hand-drawn schematic is a real input rather than a separate mode you get stuck in.

Start from files you already have. Import Gerbers to view, measure and modify an existing board. Useful when you are working from something a previous engineer left behind.

What goes into a finished board

If you have not built one before, these are the stages a board passes through. The builder handles all of them, and you can intervene at any point rather than accepting what comes out.

  1. Schematic. What connects to what. Every board starts here, whether you wrote it or generated it.
  2. Footprints. The physical pad geometry each part needs. Taken from a standards-based library where one exists rather than invented.
  3. Placement. Where parts sit. Thermal, connector position and signal length all matter, and a bad placement cannot be rescued by routing.
  4. Routing. The copper between pads, across as many layers as the board needs.
  5. Design rules. Clearances, widths, annular rings and drill sizes checked against what a fab can actually make.
  6. Manufacturing files. Gerber, Excellon drill, pick-and-place and BOM: the package a fab needs to quote and build.

Routed ATtiny85 and SSD1306 OLED board with ISP header, OLED socket and USB micro-B
The ATtiny85 OLED board after two chat edits: SCL on PB2, the USB micro-B powering the board, the ISP header complete. 10 parts on 31.5 × 26.7 mm.

What the builder got wrong on that board

The first version of the OLED board came back placed and routed, and it could not have worked:

  • SCL was on PB1. The ATtiny85's I2C hardware needs SCL on PB2.
  • The USB connector was not wired. Nothing powered the board.
  • A second 4-pin header duplicated the OLED socket.

One chat edit fixed all three, but it took MISO off the ISP header, and a second edit put it back. A routed board is not a working board, and after every change you re-check the whole board, not only the part you asked about.

Do I need to know PCB design already?

No, though you will get more out of it if you understand your circuit. The builder makes the mechanical decisions (footprints, placement, routing, clearances) and explains what it did, so a first board is achievable without learning a desktop tool first.

What it will not do is design a circuit you cannot describe. If you are unsure what the board should contain, start with a similar reference design and change it.

What it cannot judge for you is whether the circuit matches the datasheets. Before you order, check power on every chip, and that pins with a special job (I2C, USB, programming, reset) sit on pins that have that hardware.

Can I get it manufactured?

Yes. Exports are standard Gerber X2, Excellon drill, pick-and-place and BOM, the same files any fab expects, with presets for JLCPCB, PCBWay and OSH Park so board constraints match the process before you order. Nothing is paywalled behind an export.

PCBEditor export dialog listing Gerber, drill, CPL, BOM, IPC-D-356, IPC-2581, ODB++, PDFs, STEP and KiCad
One export dialog for every fab format: Gerber X2, Excellon drill, pick-and-place (CPL), BOM, IPC-D-356, IPC-2581, ODB++, assembly and fabrication PDFs, a STEP model and a KiCad board, in one zip.

The export includes a KiCad board too, so a board can start in the browser and be finished in KiCad.

The page this post is based on is at pcbeditor.com/pcb-builder. It is free to start, and you don't need an account to open the editor. The full walk from schematic to the first power-up is in How to Make a PCB: Ten Steps, Shown on Real Boards.


What did your first board get wrong? In our six-board test, four boards passed every automated check with a circuit mistake still in them, so I'd like to know which mistakes made it all the way to real boards.

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